Shoe.



1. E. DUBEI'.

SHOE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT; 3. I917.

Patented Dec.11,1917f JUSJEPH E. DUE-E, F HAVLERHILL. MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNUJB; U13 ONEQElL/lltlldll 'lltl HENRY L, HARRIS, 0J5 l-IAVZERHILL,

SHOE.

lldlthldl li.

Application filed September 13, 191?.

To all iii/tom 62? may concern:

Be it known that l, Josnrrr E. Dunn, a. citizen of the United States, and a resident of Havel-hill, county of Essex, and State of Massachusetts, have invented an llmprovement in Shoes, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to certain improve ments in shoes of the type having a wood heel attached by inside nailing, and in which the rim of the heel at its base bears directly against the upper, instead of against the heel of the outer sole, as is customary with other types of heels.

Prior to my invention it has been customary, in the manufacture of shoes of this type, to round out the heel of the sole to the full size of the heel of the last, and then to cut away the edge-portion of the outer, or heelseat side of the sole to permit the edge of the heel to bear against the upper, and make a tight oint therewith.

This operation of cutting away the edgeportion of the sole has usuallybeen done with an ordinary hand knife, and required considerable skill and care in its execution. in doing this work, the workman cuts the sole inwardly, at its opposite edge portions, and at the location of the heel breast, and then bevels the square edge of the sole about the heel to the shoulders thus formed, so that, when the heel is applied, its breast will bear against this shoulder and the edge of the heel base will bear on the upper.

lln the manufacture of turn shoes having wood heels, it is customary to attach the upper to the heel portion of the sole by sewing, and, when the leather is cut away about the heel of the sole, as above described, in such a shoe it is not only necessary to cut so close to the stitches as to weaken the substance in which they are located, so that they are liable to be pulled out, but it frequently happens that the stitches are accidentally cut and the upper is accidentally gashed or slit while the work is being done, to the great detriment of the shoe.

The labor cost of cutting away the sole and fitting the heel thereto, is also a very substantial item of expense in the manufacture of the shoe.

'llhe object of my invention is to produce a shoe of the above described character, which is so constructed that the full strength of the substance which holds the stitches will be Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Wee, till, 19 1",

Serial No. 191,124.

retained and the labor expense of fitting the heel seat to the wood heel will be avoided.

ll accomplish this object in the manner hereinafter described, and as illustrated in the accompanying drawing in which Figure 1 is a plan view of the inner side of the sole, as rounded and channeled.

Fig. 2 is a view of the shoe bottom.

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of the heel portion of the sole, as fitted ready for last ing.

Figs. 4 and 6 are detail sectional views, at the lines 4% and 6-41 of l.

Fig. is a similar view, at line 5-5 of Fig. 2.

Fig. 7 is a. detail sectional view, at the line 77 of Fig. 8.

Fig. 8 is a side view of the heel portion of the shoe, after the heel seat has been beaten out.

In the drawing indicates the outer sole of a turn-sewed shoe embodying my invention. its indicated in the drawing, the fore part and shank portions of the sole are channeled in the usual manner to form a beveled edge surface or margin c, an upright shoulder a and a channel so that the upper h is attached to the sole by stitches c, which hold it against the shoulder a, (sec 6).

According to my invention, the heel-portion of the sole is not rounded out to the full contour of the heel, but, when this operation is performed, it is reduced in size by the en tent of the sole margin 0,, which is formed about the fore part and in the shank, from the extreme edge of the sole to the shoulder o so that an upper receiving face a is provided about the heel portion of the sole, which extends throughout its entire thickness, an d is perpendicular to the sole surface.

In channeling the sole, as thus rounded, while the shank and fore part portions are channeled as usual, when the heel portion is reached, the shoulder and charuiel lniives are moved outwardly, with relation to the edge guard, a distance approximately equal the width of the sole margin 0;, so that the face a is in line with the shoulder (W, as shown in Fig. 3, and the bottom of the chan nel is thus brought correspondingly nearer the sole edge, leaving the same thickness of substance from the bottom of the channel, at this point, to the edge a as to the shoulder o at other. portions.

When the shoe is sewed, the shank and till llll'i fore part will be sewed in the usual manner, While about the heel the upper will be sewed'against the edge at by stitches which pass from said edge into the channel, as shown in Fig. 4.

After the shoe has been turned and relasted, the heel seat is leveled, usually with a hammer, and, when constructed as above described, the sole does not extend over the bent edge portion of the counter so that, whenthe heel of the sole is pounded down, the counter tends to work up on the last until the bent, over portion is nearly flush with the sole, as indicated in Figs. 7 and 8. With the heel seat as thus formed, it will be evident, that, when the heel d which has the usual coneaved base, is placed thereon, the side edgeportions of its base will be permitted; to] bear directly on the upper, and will not beheld out of contact therewith by the sole. At the same time, the breast edge of the heel will be permitted to bear directly on the sole surface, so as to make a tight joint therewith. As a result, when the heel is attached, it will make a tight joint with the heel seat at all points about its base, and permit the breast edge to be forced firmly against the sole.

While the heel, as ordinarily concaved in its base, will fit against the sole at the breast, so as to make atight joint therewith, it is desirable to shape the heel at this point so as toconform more exactly to the transverse shape ofthe sole at the heel breast, as shown in Fig. '5...

As thus constructed the full strength of the seam between the upper and heel portion of the sole, is retained, and the necessity of having any hand work performed to lit the heel seat to the heel is avoided.

I claim z- 1. A shoe of the character described having its outer sole provided with an upper receiving margin and shoulder about the shank and fore part edge portions, and an approximately square edge about its heelportion, said edge being approximately eontinuous with said shoulder at each edge of the shank, and having a stitch receiving channel the bottom of which is located at an approximately uniform distance from the line of said shoulder and square edge, the upper being held against said shoulder and square edge by stitches extending therethrough to said channel, and a heel attached to the heel portion of the sole and seating against the upper about the said edge thereof and against the sole at its breast edge.

2. A shoe having its outer sole formed with an approximately square ed ge about its entire heel portion and located at a substantial distance within the side and rear edges of the heel seat and having a heel secured thereto and ar 'anged with its entire side and rear base margin seated on the upper at a substantial distance beyond said edge and with its breast edge seated on the sole surface.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

JOSEPH E. Dunn.

Gopies-e-;.thts patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of. Patents. Washington, D. C. 

